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s/y TROLDAND - From the Baltic to the Med

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2014 (year 5)

(text and pictures from 2010), (text and pictures from 2011), (winter in Seville), (text and pictures from 2012), (text and pictures from 2013), (winter in Barcelona), (text and pictures from 2015), (text and pictures from 2016), (winter in Palermo) (text and from pictures 2017), (text og billeder fra 2018)

From San Carles via Sardinia & Sicily to the Ionian

A short account of 2014
After a long winter-break we arrived back to Sant Carles (via London visiting friends) in mid March, full of energy. Almost four years of continuous sailing has taken its toll and on Troldand there were quite a lot of things we had to check and update. The old saying has proved to be right ie. you should on average spend at least one hour a day on boat maintenance; but it was nice to have the time to do things properly. Early May we left for for Soller, Cituadella and Mahon (pictures in the 2013 report) spending some nice time there before leaving for Sardinia.

As we had decided that our goal this year should be the Ionian and as we don't like to be in a hurry but want to spend a lot of time at the places we visit, we 'saved' northern Sardinia and northern Sicily until our return (whenever that may be). Thus we sailed south of these two large islands and continued via Calabria and Puglia the shortestpossible route to Lefkas (some 1500 nm from Spain) and 'The sacred City of Messolonghi' which we had decided should be our base for the coming year(s), as we plan to go up the Adriatic next spring (but returning to Messolonghi during august while back in Denmark) .... But remember: Plans are made to be changed.

Sardinia
From Mahon (Menorca) to Sardinia it is about 160 nm to the closest approach at Torre GrandeFrom here via Tharros, Portoscuso, Caloforte and Teulada to Cagliari where we stayed for some two weeks before continuing to Sicily (more pictures from  Sardinia W,  Cagliari &  Sardinia NW & C
)

 
Cagliari, a city worth while a visit and with several marinas. One of whch is quite primetive and somewhat strange however, with decent prices. Might be good for a winters stay 
 
 A Nuraghi, southern Sardinia. Facinating Neolitic megalites possibly of religious importance related to water    The Phonician ruins at Tharros
 
Another visit to a vinery (Cantina). Sardinia produces excellent red- and white wines. The (white) Vernaccia was a new aquaintance and a quality wine which we enjoyed as an aperitif.   Cagliari and World Champinon soccer in the marina (while Italy was still in the game alas, this was it)


Sicily
From Sardinia to Trapani on western Sicilia is another 160 nm. Further via Isola Egadi, Sciacca and Licata where we left Troldand while going back to Denmark in August (when it's to warm for northerners). While in Sicily we rented a car and enjoyed some nice trips to various arceological sites and not least visiting the famous volcano of Etna (more pictures from Western Sicilia & Southern Sicilia)
 
 The Greek ruins at Seliuente, worth while a visit   Sleeping quarters at the imperial Villa romans del Casale. Obviously the retired emperor enjoyed a little pornography
 
The Turkish Stairs (Skala di Turci) an impressive coastal formation just east of Licata    Rosemarie and Kirsten at Etna on a glorious day
 

Sardinia and Sicily has a long tradition of coastal tuna fishery using large floating nets processed inocal factories. Ths is now all gone and few tunas still caught are shipped to Malta for processing. The anchors here is a memory of a time gone   A nice 7.7 kg tuna caught in the southern Messina Strait en route for Crotone. Bruno (Buller) is obviously satisfied with the safe landing of the catch. Food for three days.

Calabria & The Ionian
From the southeastern corner of Sicily directly to Crotone where we had some lovely days with friends Pino and Helen. Then (via Santa Maria de Leuca) to Lefkada our first Greek port, and later first impressions of the Ionian, before finally reaching our winter-habour in Messolonghi.

 
Pino and Helen, a Danish-Italian couple and natives of Crotone, whom we met accidentally and who graciously invited us to their home and drove us around their beloved Calabria   The Calabrian village of Monte Fuscaldi
 
The sound between mainland Greece and Lefkas... 'is it a bridge  or a ferry that is the question' (on which the EU regional funding depends we were told)   Wide salt marshes outside Messolonghi, a bird sanctuary under the RAMSAR convention and a EU Natura 2000 area
 
Fishing huts along the picturesque channel that leads to the marina in Messolonghi   The Sacred City of Messolonghi (as the Greeks call it) is known for its heroic defence against the Turks during the Greek war of independence (1821-32), celebrated by an annual Exodus march (watch video). 
Lord Byron is well known for his support and died here where his heart is said
to be burried (Personally I think the idea originating from the expression 'he left his heart in Messolonghi').

It has been a wonderful sailing season with lots of nice experiences. It is however, obvious that we have now reached some of the most popular cruising grounds in The Medeterrenean with lots of yachts and people who live aboard for extented periods and with whom we share a priveleged lifestyle.

Last Update October 2017

 

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New pictures 2018:
Sardinia East (12/5-18)
Strait of Bonafacio (20/5-18)
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